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One more winter in Alpe d’Huez

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Snowsports

So, here I am, back in Alpe d’Huez. I know, I know… not exactly what I’d had in mind when I wrote my last post in September.

I can’t deny that quitting my job, abandoning my yoga-teaching plans and leaving The Boyfriend to pay the rent while I hid-out in India or Les Deux Alpes wasn’t a huge temptation; but in the end it seemed all to easy to run from my commitments and turn my back on the challenges I’d set myself.

After all, nobody forced me to move here in the first place. And let’s face it, I’m so blessed to have a job, a home, a partner, clean air, hot water and fresh food. Then of course, there’s the view…

But still something is tugging on my soul. I enjoy my job but I don’t feel it’s my life purpose to sell ski school lessons and lift passes, no matter how fun and friendly the tourists can be. And I love The Boyfriend, all we are, how far we’ve come and all we will be. But how can I be fully present and open when I feel so unlike my full-self, just a shadow of who I know I can be? When I’m torn between household stuff, earning money and squeezing-in moments dedicated to finding and living my purpose, life – the fully-lived and conscious enlightened life that I’m seeking – seems just too challenging. I feel alone in my quest, discouraged in my darkness, lost in my own snowstorm.

And in these moments, when I wrap myself around a cup of tea, huddle into the corner and try not to cry, the last thing I want to do is the one thing I know will help. Why is this? What dark force trips me up in my desolation, perpetuating the cycle of self-loathing, paralysing me in my mind? Is it habit? A predisposition to darkness? Lack of commitment to the Truth?

Or a crippling ability to over-think and berate myself for each tiny decision, going round and round in circles until the minutes have slipped by and I find myself without time to nurture, take positive action or just stop the jabbering of my darkest mind and pause, drop into silence and just accept the moment without trying to protect myself from it’s vicious fangs or turn my back against the pain it causes. Why can’t I do the one thing I know will help? Why can’t I just roll out my mat?

When I’m on my mat I am my self again, my best self. I drop out of the darkness, out of the ‘real’ world and into myself, into the light that lives within me, the steady flame whose flickering is all in my imagination. When I’m on my mat the crushing loneliness I feel here unfurls into independence, I’m no longer alone but ‘all one’.

And so maybe, just maybe, I’ve come back here in order to rediscover this part of myself; to reconnect with my deepest inner-self rather than flit from one superficial friendship to another. To focus on myself in the absence of distractions. To learn who I really am and just what I’m capable of being. As I twist my spine up into Ardha Matsyendrasana I feel the potential of the future; as I raise myself into Wheel Pose I feel the strength of my will; as I lie back into Shavasana, my most challenging position, I feel the peace of allowing myself to surrender into the moment.

Each day, as I face these challenges I will bring my faith, my practice, my light into the darkness I perceive surrounding me; knowing that it too has its purpose and all I need to do is change my mind to really start living the life I want to live. To break a cycle one must either step out or stop. I see now how invested I’ve become in seeing only darkness in this place; I choose to close my eyes and feel the light, to both step out and stop this madness. From Lesson 132 of A Course in Miracles:

‘There is no world apart from what you wish, and herein lies your ultimate release. Change but your mind on what you want to see, and all the world must change accordingly.’

Here’s to a more powerful and positive season, a peace-filled Christmas and an inspiring start to 2012 at home in Alpe d’Huez.

PS: went skiing yesterday and the snow’s pretty good, although it’s very cold and windy up top. For more on the conditions, check-out Alpe d’Huez Net

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Changing paces and priorities

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Hiking

Interseason can be interminable. We’re four weeks in and I’m feeling more sane than I usually do… but the sun is shining and I know that I’ve only got ten days left here.

Living in the mountains is a daily blessing. We’re so grateful of the clean, fresh air, the stunning views and the ability to look down on the cloudy valley below, knowing we don’t have to stay down there too long. But despite living amidst the beauty, it’s all too easy to step into the darkness of ourselves and the transient. And boy is this a transient way of life… nothing teaches you better how to let go and live in the moment.

For five months of the year we dig ourselves out of our apartment buildings and wade through the snow to work, seeing little daylight and even less of the mountains. Then we spend the two mid-summer months – working, again, indoors – shielding from the scorching sun and advising visitors on how best to enjoy these stunning surroundings. The seasonal lifestyle leaves five months to really experience the meadows, peaks and forests.

But of course, there is such thing as too much. When I’m working, all I want is to escape onto one of the mountain paths, turn my back on this crazy tourist-filled town and walk for hours. And when I’m not working a million little jobs surface and the days fill themselves with the usual chores and admin tasks that we don’t have time for during the season.

When the to-do list is complete I find myself bored, so unstimulated by the lack of anything I consider creative or productive that I’m desperate to escape off the mountain, just to get some stimulation, some excitement, some human warmth. Where’s the balance in all of this? Where’s the joy?? I find myself constantly wishing for the something other than what I’m living. The sun and the views and the wild animals aren’t enough to soothe a soul that’s crying in the darkness, a soul lost and confused, unstimulated, unappreciated.

And I can’t do this anymore. I can’t keep living this life. The on-off-on-off-again has to stop. Because it’s not just my soul that’s suffering, I don’t think this constant flipping between stress and lonliness can be doing my health any good; and of course, if I’m not working, I’m not earning anything.
I know myself well enough now to know that my soul needs me to be engaged in some sort of productive work; that a life of leisure isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. I’ve been living in this constant state of flux for the past five years, not counting my first winter season and the subsequent year in a London office dreaming of France. I’m 33 and I’m starting to crave something more steady.

I know that stability is a state of mind, I understand that happiness comes in surrender to the inherently changeable nature of the universe, allowing ourselves to be swept along with the tide, rather than bracing ourselves against it. Resistance is a constant theme for me at the moment. What am I resisting? I’m certainly resisting against the life I’ve chosen, a life that I’m not enjoying or appreciating as much as I used to. But I’m also resisting change.

I’m resisting admitting this this isn’t necessarily for me any more. I’m so aware of how blessed I am to live this life that I feel guilty for wanting to change it. For wanting a life more in-tune with the seasons, a pace of life that’s more consistent, less jerky. And with these feelings of guilt and questions about the future I’m left feeling confused, trying not to resent the choices I’ve made in my life and the cold, north-facing apartment, in an empty block, in a town empty of everyone except builders and workmen.

So I’m leaving. Just for a short time. I have a visa for India. I’m going to learn how to become a yoga instructor. Then I’m going to lie on a beach and do a little exploring in Sri Lanka. And then I’m going to London to see my family and stock-up on British essentials like Cadbury’s chocolate and Marmite. This is my plan. I’ll be back just before the season starts, when the town will already be deep in snow (here’s hoping!). I’m going to let the wave of euphoria for the start of the new winter carry me into work, into creating yoga classes, into 2012.

Or, I might just take advantage of that six-month Indian visa, quit my job and stay away. Who knows. Right now the second option is the most tempting but the fact that it would be so easy to stay in India is what’s stopping me. I’ve never been one to take an easy path, I love a challenge and perhaps this is the key for me. The challenges I present myself in this seasonal lifestyle aren’t spread thinly enough. Each season I take on new responsibilities, jobs, commitments… and each interseason they drop away. We’re back to that on-off-on-off-again, the flickering lightbulb of my life.

I really have no solution, only a maze of questions. But just asking the questions is making me feel better. Knowing there are options and possibilities, admitting this is no longer for me, I feel a sense of relief. So, for the next few months I’ll continue to try to ground myself in the healthy daily practices of yoga, reading, writing and photography. No matter where I am in the world, no matter who I’m with, I pray that these little disciplines will keep me on the right track. And I pray in faith, knowing deep in my soul that my prayers have already been answered; it’s just the details that need to be allowed to fall into place.

The photographs accompanying this post were in and around Alpe d’Huez. They show the views along the path from the resort to the Col de Sarenne and the road from Villard Reculas to Huez. For more hikes in the area click here.

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The Tour comes to Alpe d’Huez

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Cycling, Featured

As someone immune to competitive sports, the result of yesterday’s apparently thrilling stage of the Tour de France was rather lost on me. However, the carnival atmosphere created by thousands of visitors lining the route was a fantastic experience.

The streets were full of cycling enthusiasts, bedecked in their national flags and/or team colours. It seemed the entire population of Luxembourg had descended on Alpe d’Huez, creating a new national capital in the chalets opposite the ‘O’Bar.

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Alpe d’Huez… where is the love?

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Featured, Hiking

Sometimes it’s hard to remember why we’re here. During the holiday season we get caught up with work, trying to ensure visitors have such a great experience they’ll want to return to the area again and again. And during the inter-season, the empty town and empty schedule rock me to my core.

We’re preparing, once again, to open Alpe d’Huez on Saturday. Many businesses are already open, and you can smell the new season in the air. Or maybe that’s the smell of rubble and sawdust as workman and builders continue their renovations until the last minute? I prefer to think it’s the new flowers as they bloom, as layer upon layer appear in the grass and the undergrowth.

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Dutch raise millions on the 21 bends

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Cycling, Events, Featured

Today is the fifth annual Alpe d’HuZes, a purely Dutch event that sees amateur cyclists riding up and down Alpe d’Huez’s 21 bends in aid of cancer charities.

The stats for this event are staggering: 4300 cyclists riding the bends six times to (hopefully) raise 20m€. And let’s not forget the stats of the course: the access road to Alpe d’Huez from Bourg d’Oisans is 14km long, rising over 1000m. An accomplished and fit cyclist would generally make the ascent in just over an hour, and Marco Pantani set the record for the Tour de France in 1997 with a time of 37 minutes and 35 seconds.

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Walking, talking and brownies…

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Featured, Hiking, Other Villages

After the non-stop madness of the winter season, it takes a little while to adjust to the void that is inter-season.

Of course there are always things to do, but they’re rarely exciting and usually involve some sort of French bureaucracy. For example, I spent two and a half hours in the tax office in Bourg d’Oisans yesterday, waiting for advice on my income tax form. Once that was completed I found myself with a free and sunny afternoon. What better way to pass a chunk of time than with a long walk with a good friend?

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Life lessons from the rock face

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Featured, Other Activities

I rarely hear my own heart beating in my ears. But I hear it now; loudly. My legs tremble, my hands burn. I try not to look down to the river running 100m below me but I can hear it gushing over rocks between heartbeats. A bird flies past my head and above me the clouds are gathering. I ask myself – not for the first time – why I’m doing this.

And then my breath kicks-in. And I realise that via ferrata isn’t just great for the body, it’s a mental sport too, requiring focus, strength and a kind, supportive, inner voice. A great lesson for life as well as for the rock face…

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A final farewell to winter 2010/11…

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Featured

Winter 2010/11 is finally over, and I don’t think I’m the only one who’s glad to see the back of it. Perhaps it was the lack of snow and the almost permanently sunny skies that made the ‘winter’ seem to last for ever.

Looking back at my reports over the season, it probably only snowed a total of ten times. And the sunshine – usually a welcome sight during the dark winter months – became monotonous, taunting us from the centre of clear blue skies devoid of snow-filled clouds.

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The last ski of the season?

Category : Alpe d'Huez, Featured, Snowsports

Today I skied in Alpe d’Huez. This week’s warm weather has had a drastic effect on the snow at all altitudes and I’ve been curious about the state of the pistes since lift company SATA reduced the price of daily passes last weekend.

As I was uploading yesterday’s report on the snow conditions in Les 2 Alpes, news reached me that the cold, hard pistes above 2100m had turned soft overnight. Not quite slushy, but wet and soft. Hmmm… was I about to discover the same thing in Alpe d’Huez?

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Plenty of snow in Les 2 Alpes

Category : Featured, Les 2 Alpes, Snowsports

The resort is quiet, holiday sales are down and the tour operators are starting to close-up for the summer. Which is great if you’ve already booked as there’s still plenty of skiing in Les 2 Alpes so whatever you do… pack your ski stuff and don’t cancel your holiday!

There’s a lot of chat around town that the snow is finished and the season is over. It’s not true! The chat is coming from seasonnaires who aren’t too impressed with current conditions and that’s partly because it’s warm in resort so everyone is more interested in BBQs and sunbathing than riding. Only the seriously keen – and the tourists – were on the mountain yesterday.